How to Get Roof Inspection for Insurance Claim the Right Way

To get a roof inspection for an insurance claim the right way, hire an independent licensed roofing contractor for a baseline assessment before you call your insurance company, then have that same contractor on the roof when the insurer's adjuster arrives. The sequence decides the outcome. Homeowners who document the damage within 24 to 48 hours, obtain an independent line-item report, file inside the deadline, and walk the roof alongside the adjuster recover far more of what their policy actually owes them. Below we lay out the full order of operations, what a qualified inspector examines, what the report must contain, the Florida filing clocks that bar late claims, and what to do if the settlement comes back short.

Key Takeaways

• Hire your own licensed roofing contractor first, because the insurance adjuster assesses liability for the carrier, not the true condition of your roof.
• Photograph wide shots of every roof slope and close-ups with a ruler or coin for scale within 24 to 48 hours of the storm, with location services turned on.
• Florida bars a roof claim unless notice reaches the insurer within 1 year of the date of loss, and bars supplemental claims after 18 months.
• Your insurer owes you deadlines too: acknowledgment in 7 calendar days, a physical inspection within 30 days of proof of loss, and payment or denial within 60 days.
• Be present with your contractor during the adjuster's inspection so soft metals, vents, gutter dings, and collateral damage get recorded on the spot.
• Roof age alone cannot sink your policy: a Florida insurer may not refuse to renew a roof under 15 years old solely for age, and a roof 15 years or older qualifies if an inspection shows 5 or more years of useful life remaining.
• Compare the carrier's scope against your contractor's estimate line by line, and submit a supplement with photo support for anything the adjuster missed.

How Do You Get a Roof Inspection for an Insurance Claim the Right Way?

You get a roof inspection for an insurance claim the right way by running five stages in strict order: document the damage immediately, hire an independent roofer before you file, report the loss inside the deadline, attend the adjuster's inspection with your contractor, and review the settlement line by line before you accept it. Skipping a stage rarely kills a claim outright. Reversing the order usually does.

Order matters because every stage produces the evidence the next stage depends on. Photographs taken in the first 48 hours give your inspector a dated record to interpret. Your inspector's interpretation becomes the written report. The written report sets the scope the adjuster has to respond to. The adjuster's response becomes the settlement figure you either accept or dispute. Reverse that chain and you end up arguing about damage nobody recorded.

Recording damage is not a formality in this climate. Wind and hail perils accounted for 51 percent of all United States property claims in the third quarter of 2025, according to Verisk's quarterly property report, and the Insurance Information Institute estimates that roof damage represents 70 to 90 percent of insured residential catastrophe losses tied to hail events. The roof absorbs the storm first, so the roof carries the proof.

Should You Get a Roof Inspection Before Filing an Insurance Claim?

Yes, you should get a roof inspection before filing an insurance claim, because the insurance company's adjuster evaluates liability on behalf of the carrier, while an independent inspector you hire documents the actual condition of your roof. Those are two different jobs producing two different documents.

A pre-claim assessment gives you a baseline nobody can argue with later. The baseline establishes what the roof looked like immediately after the storm, which separates sudden impact damage from the slow deterioration carriers exclude. Carriers exclude gradual deterioration because policies cover sudden accidental loss, not deferred upkeep, and wear-and-tear classification remains the most common reason roof claims get denied across the industry.

An independent assessment also tells you whether filing is worth it at all. A quick roof audit can reveal that the damage sits below your deductible, in which case a claim record buys you nothing. Deductibles in this state are rarely flat numbers either, since named-storm losses trigger a separate percentage hurricane deductible calculated against dwelling coverage.

Hiring your own contractor first carries one more practical benefit. The contractor who writes the report is usually the contractor who performs the repair, so the person documenting the damage already knows how the roofing systems in question are built, fastened, and flashed. We write our reports in the line-item format adjusters work from, which removes most of the back and forth before it starts.

How Do You Document Roof Damage Before the Inspection?

You document roof damage before the inspection by photographing every roof elevation from a distance, then capturing close-ups of each damage point with a ruler, coin, or tape measure in frame for scale, within 24 to 48 hours of the weather event. Scale references turn a photo of a dent into a measurable hail strike.

Measurable evidence depends on metadata as much as framing. Turn on GPS and location services before you start shooting so each image carries verified coordinates and a timestamp. Timestamps matter because carriers routinely question when damage occurred, and an unedited high-resolution file with embedded date data answers that question without debate. Email the full set to yourself the same day, since the email header creates a second independent record.

Interior evidence completes the picture. Walk the ceilings and the attic with a flashlight and photograph water stains, damp insulation, daylight visible through decking, and any active drip. Attic dampness links the exterior breach to an interior consequence, and untreated moisture damage compounds quickly in Florida humidity.

Keep the paperwork moving alongside the photos. Pull your declarations page, collect past repair invoices, save receipts for emergency tarping or board-up work, and note the exact date and type of the storm. Emergency mitigation is not optional: your policy obligates you to take reasonable steps to prevent further loss, and the carrier reimburses those costs as part of the claim.

What Does a Roof Inspector Look For After a Storm?

A roof inspector looks for impact bruising, lifted or missing shingles, cracked and slipped tiles, panel uplift at seams, damaged flashing, dented soft metals, and interior water intrusion after a storm. The inspection runs exterior first, then interior, because the exterior finding predicts where the interior evidence will be.

Exterior work begins with a hands-on walk of every slope. The inspector examines field shingles or tiles, ridge caps, valleys, penetrations, pipe boots, vents, chimneys, skylights, and gutters, checking each component for impact, uplift, or displacement. Displacement at the valleys and penetrations deserves extra attention, since those details carry the highest water volume on the roof and fail first.

Soft metals tell the clearest story. Vents, gutters, downspouts, and drip edge dent on impact, and dents in soft metal give an adjuster a dated, measurable record of hail size that shingles alone will not provide. Granule accumulation in the gutter trough supports that record, because granule loss exposes the asphalt mat beneath and marks the shingle as compromised rather than cosmetically marked.

What Will Fail a Roof Inspection?

A roof will fail an inspection for active leaks, soft or delaminated decking, missing or displaced coverings, broken headlap on tile, corroded or separated flashing, backed-out fasteners, sagging rooflines, and widespread granule loss. Each of those conditions lets water past the covering, which is the single test that matters.

Structural findings outrank cosmetic ones. Rafter deflection, delaminated plywood or OSB, and sagging along the eaves point to prolonged water entry and prompt immediate attention. Prolonged water entry also produces the interior staining an adjuster uses to confirm that the breach is real rather than theoretical. Several of these conditions overlap with the everyday warning signs homeowners spot from the ground between storms.

How Do You Tell Storm Damage From Normal Wear and Tear?

You tell storm damage from normal wear and tear by the freshness of the break: storm damage leaves clean edges, fresh dents, dark unweathered bruising, and unsealed tabs, while wear and tear leaves curling, brittleness, rust, and evenly distributed granule silt. Adjusters are trained on exactly this distinction, and the Insurance Information Institute reports that hail drives up to 80 percent of severe storm claims in a typical year, so carriers scrutinize the difference closely. The comparison below reflects the classification standards used across the restoration industry and in published carrier guidance.

What Storm Damage Looks Like on Tile and Metal Roofs

Storm damage on tile and metal roofs looks different from shingle damage, because tile fails by cracking, slipping, and losing headlap, while metal fails by panel uplift, seam separation, and fastener backout. Most national claim guidance is written for asphalt shingles in hail country, which leaves homeowners on tile and metal roofs with coverings those checklists never describe.

Headlap loss is the detail inspectors miss most often on tile. Headlap is the overlap between courses that keeps wind-driven rain from reaching the underlayment, and a tile can sit in place looking intact while the course beneath it has shifted enough to break that overlap. Underlayment exposed this way deteriorates under ultraviolet load long before a ceiling stain ever appears.

Metal roofs hide damage just as effectively. A standing seam panel that lifted during a gust may reseat itself, leaving an elongated fastener hole and a compromised clip behind. Compromised clips reduce the uplift rating of the whole assembly, which is why metal roofing inspections include seam engagement and fastener condition rather than surface appearance alone.

How Long Should a Roof Inspection Take?

A roof inspection should take 45 minutes to two hours for a typical single-family home, with larger, steeper, or multi-section roofs running longer. Multi-section roofs take longer because each section needs separate documentation, and the report has to state which section carries which damage.

Speed is a warning sign. An inspector who stays on the ground, skips the attic, or wraps up in fifteen minutes has not produced anything a carrier will treat as evidence. Evidence requires photographs from the roof surface itself, measurements, and written findings tied to specific elevations.

What Should a Roof Inspection Report Include for Insurance?

A roof inspection report for insurance should include the property address, the date and type of the weather event, photographs of every elevation, close-ups with scale references, the type and extent of damage, the probable cause, measurements, and a line-item repair or replacement estimate. A one-page summary with a lump-sum number does not qualify.

Line-item detail is what separates a report from a quote. The estimate should itemize tear-off, underlayment, drip edge, starter course, valley metal, flashing, fasteners, ridge, disposal, permit, and any code-required upgrade, each with quantities. Quantities give the adjuster something to agree or disagree with specifically, which is how disputes get resolved instead of stalled.

A strong report follows this structure, in the order an adjuster reads it:

1. Property identification, inspection date, and the date and type of the loss event.
2. Roof system description: covering material, approximate age, slope, number of sections, and permit history where available.
3. Elevation-by-elevation findings with photo references for each damaged component.
4. Damage classification separating event-related damage from pre-existing conditions.
5. Interior and attic findings tied to the matching exterior breach.
6. Line-item scope of work with quantities and code-required items identified.
7. Repair versus replacement recommendation with the reasoning stated plainly.

Honest classification strengthens the claim rather than weakening it. A report that flags one aging slope while documenting fresh impact on three others reads as credible, and credibility is what moves an adjuster. Reports that claim everything and concede nothing invite re-inspection.

How Long Do You Have to File a Roof Claim in Florida?

You have 1 year from the date of loss to give your insurer notice of a roof claim in Florida, and 18 months from the date of loss for a supplemental claim. Florida Statute 627.70132 bars both outright past those dates, whatever the merits of the damage.

These windows closed sharply after the 2022 reforms. Prior Florida law allowed two years for initial notice and three years for supplemental claims, so the Legislature cut each deadline roughly in half through Senate Bills 2-D and 2-A. Homeowners across South Florida still operate on the old timeline and discover the change only when a carrier declines a claim as untimely.

A supplemental claim is also narrower than most people assume. The statute defines it as additional loss or damage from the same peril the insurer already adjusted, or costs incurred while completing repairs under an open claim. Damage from a different storm is a new claim on the one-year clock, not a supplement on the eighteen-month clock, which matters in a region that can take two named systems in a single season. Steady hurricane prep before the season keeps those dates straight.

How Long Does an Insurance Company Have to Pay a Roof Claim?

An insurance company has 60 days from notice of the claim to pay or deny it in Florida, along with earlier duties set by Florida Statute 627.70131. Late payment accrues statutory interest from the date the insurer received notice of the claim.

The carrier's calendar runs like this:

Those figures come straight from the current text of the statute, which the 2022 reforms tightened from 14 days for acknowledgment and 90 days for payment. Knowing the dates changes how you follow up, because a polite written reminder that references a specific statutory deadline moves a stalled file faster than a phone call ever does.

Can I Ask My Insurance Company to Inspect My Roof?

Yes, you can ask your insurance company to inspect your roof, and once you file a claim the carrier will assign an adjuster and schedule that inspection as part of its investigation. The adjuster visit is a step in the process rather than a favor you request.

What you cannot do is treat the adjuster's visit as a substitute for your own. The adjuster carries a caseload, works a scope, and reports to the carrier. Your contractor works your roof. Both sets of eyes produce better documentation than either one alone, and the gap between the two reports is where most underpayments live.

Should You Be Present During the Adjuster's Roof Inspection?

Yes, you should be present during the adjuster's roof inspection, and your roofing contractor should be on the roof at the same time. Joint inspections produce agreement on the spot instead of correspondence three weeks later.

Your contractor's job during that walk is to point at findings, not to argue. Soft metal dents, vent collars, gutter dings, and collateral damage to fascia or screen enclosures get overlooked routinely, and a contractor who indicates each one while the adjuster has a camera in hand gets them into the file. Items in the file become items in the scope.

Have the following ready before the adjuster arrives:

• Your contractor's written inspection report with photographs and a line-item estimate.
• Your own dated photo and video documentation, exterior and interior.
• The policy declarations page showing coverage, deductibles, and endorsements.
• Receipts for tarping, board-up, or water extraction performed after the event.
• Maintenance history and past repair invoices for the roof.
• Permit records showing when the roof was installed and under which code edition.

Ask one procedural question during the visit: whether the inspection covers every slope or only those visible from certain vantage points. Partial inspections on steep or multi-section roofs miss damage regularly, and asking the question on site is far easier than disputing the omission afterward.

What Not to Say to an Insurance Adjuster About Your Roof

What you should not say to an insurance adjuster about your roof is anything you are guessing at: the age of the roof, the date the damage occurred, the cause of a leak, your own opinion that the roof was already worn, or an agreement to a scope or figure on the spot. Speculation becomes a recorded statement, and recorded statements get quoted back to you.

Facts carry the conversation better than estimates. Give the date of the storm, the date you discovered the damage, what your contractor documented, and what repairs you have already paid for. Dates and documents are verifiable, which is exactly what makes them useful.

Three more lines to leave alone. Avoid saying the roof "was due for replacement anyway," which hands the carrier a wear-and-tear argument. Avoid saying "I think" about any technical point, since your contractor is the one qualified to state it. Avoid signing documents during the visit, including scope acknowledgments or any assignment of your policy rights, because signing away those rights limits your control over your own claim. Take the paperwork, read it, and respond in writing afterward.

What Is the Difference Between ACV and RCV on a Roof Claim?

The difference between ACV and RCV on a roof claim is that actual cash value (ACV) pays replacement cost minus depreciation for age and condition, while replacement cost value (RCV) pays the full cost to replace, releasing the withheld depreciation once the repairs are finished. Your declarations page states which one applies to your roof.

Depreciation is where the two paths separate. Under an RCV policy the carrier issues a first check at actual cash value less the deductible, holds back recoverable depreciation, and releases that balance after you submit the final invoice and proof of completion. Proof of completion is therefore worth real money, and homeowners who never send it forfeit the withheld amount entirely.

Scale explains why this matters. The Insurance Information Institute puts the average wind and hail homeowners claim at $14,747 on a weighted 2019 to 2023 basis, while Verisk projected average property claim severity between $17,258 and $18,431 in the third quarter of 2025. Depreciation on an aging roof can account for a substantial share of a figure that size.

What to Do If the Insurance Estimate Is Lower Than Your Contractor's

If the insurance estimate is lower than your contractor's, compare the two scopes line by line and submit a supplement for every item the carrier omitted, supported by photographs and measurements. Supplements are a routine part of claim handling rather than a confrontation.

Omissions cluster in predictable places. Check the carrier's scope for drip edge, starter course, valley metal, pipe boots, ridge and hip components, fasteners, disposal, permit fees, and any upgrade the current code requires on the repaired portion. Code-required items get missed constantly, and your contractor can cite the specific code section that triggers each one.

Written follow-up protects the sequence. Send a short email after every call summarizing what was discussed, who said it, and what comes next, and request that any disagreement be documented in the claim file. A paper trail is the difference between a claim that moves and a claim that drifts.

What Is the 25% Rule in Roofing?

The 25% rule in roofing is a Florida Building Code provision stating that no more than 25 percent of the total roof area or roof section of an existing building may be repaired, replaced, or recovered within any 12-month period unless the entire roofing system conforms to current code requirements. It appears at Section 706.1.1 of the Florida Building Code, Existing Building, Seventh Edition.

Current code conformance used to force full replacement on many partial-damage claims. That changed in 2022, when the Legislature passed Senate Bill 4-D and added subsection (5) to Florida Statute 553.844. Under that exception, a roofing system or roof section built, repaired, or replaced in compliance with the 2007 Florida Building Code or any later edition needs only the repaired, replaced, or recovered portion constructed to the code in effect, even when the work covers 25 percent or more of that section.

The threshold date is March 1, 2009, when the 2007 code took effect, and permit records are the way to prove which side of that line your roof falls on. Local governments cannot amend the exception by ordinance, so the same standard applies in every Florida municipality. Pulling the permit history before the adjuster arrives frequently decides whether the claim ends as a section repair or a full roof repair and replacement scope.

How Roof Age Affects Your Claim and Your Policy

Roof age affects your claim and your policy by driving depreciation on the payout and by shaping whether a carrier will issue or renew coverage at all, though Florida law limits how far an insurer can take the age argument. Those limits sit in Florida Statute 627.7011, and most homeowners have never read them.

Will Insurance Cover a 15 Year Old Roof?

Yes, insurance can cover a 15 year old roof, and a Florida insurer may not refuse to issue or renew a homeowner's policy on a roof less than 15 years old solely because of the age of the roof. For a roof that is at least 15 years old, the insurer must allow you to obtain an inspection by an authorized inspector, at your expense, before requiring replacement as a condition of coverage.

The inspection result is what carries legal weight. If that inspection indicates the roof has 5 or more years of useful life remaining, the insurer may not refuse to issue or renew the policy solely because of roof age. Remaining useful life is a technical finding, which is one more reason the inspection report needs measurements and component condition rather than general impressions.

How Old Is an Uninsurable Roof?

An uninsurable roof is generally one past 15 years of age that cannot demonstrate 5 or more years of remaining useful life through an authorized inspection. Age by itself does not make a roof uninsurable in Florida. Condition does.

Condition is assessed component by component: covering integrity, fastener condition, flashing, underlayment performance, decking soundness, and leak history. A well-maintained tile roof at 18 years can pass where a neglected shingle roof at 12 years fails, which is why documented maintenance and a credible report matter more than the install date on the permit.

Should a 20 Year Old Roof Be Replaced?

A 20 year old roof should usually be replaced if an inspection finds it below the 5-year remaining useful life threshold, if leaks are recurring, or if storm damage affects multiple sections. A 20 year old roof in sound condition with documented upkeep can remain in service and remain insurable.

Repeat repairs are the clearest signal. Patching the same slope season after season costs more over time than a planned replacement and leaves you negotiating wear-and-tear exclusions after every storm. A planned replacement also resets the code vintage of the roof, which changes how the 25% rule applies to any future claim.

Can My Homeowners Insurance Force Me to Replace My Roof?

Your homeowners insurance cannot force you to replace your roof, but a carrier can make replacement a condition of issuing or renewing your policy, subject to the inspection rights Florida law gives you. The practical choice is between replacing the roof and finding coverage elsewhere.

Exercising the inspection right first is the better move. Request the authorized inspection the statute entitles you to, and if the roof demonstrates 5 or more years of useful life, the age-based refusal does not stand. If the inspection confirms the roof is near the end of its service life, you at least enter the replacement decision with data rather than a renewal notice deadline. We back our installations with a documented workmanship warranty, which carriers treat as evidence of a properly installed system.

What to Do If Your Roof Claim Is Denied or Underpaid

If your roof claim is denied or underpaid, request the specific reason in writing, obtain the adjuster's full inspection report and photographs, compare them against your contractor's documentation, and submit a written request for re-inspection or a second opinion. A denial letter is a position, not a verdict.

Written reasons give you something to answer. Carriers most often cite wear and tear, late reporting, insufficient documentation, pre-existing damage, a cosmetic damage exclusion, or deferred maintenance. Each of those has a specific counter: a classification rebuttal from your contractor, proof of your filing date, additional photographs, a baseline report, a functional damage argument, or maintenance receipts.

A second-opinion inspection is the strongest single response. An independent re-inspection produces a fresh report from a neutral party and frequently surfaces damage the first visit missed, particularly on sections that were never walked. Re-inspection requests carry more weight when they identify which elevations were skipped and why that omission matters.

How Do You Choose a Roofing Contractor for an Insurance Claim?

You choose a roofing contractor for an insurance claim by verifying the state license and insurance, confirming experience with insurance restoration, reviewing a sample line-item report, and checking that the contractor pulls permits and handles the municipal inspection. License verification takes two minutes through the state licensing portal and settles most questions by itself.

Ask what the inspection report actually contains before you hire anyone. A contractor who can show a redacted sample with elevation photographs, measurements, and itemized quantities is a contractor who has worked claims before. Experience with claims shows up in the format of the paperwork long before it shows up on the roof.

Two practices deserve a hard pass: anyone offering to cover or waive your deductible, and anyone pressing you to sign over your policy rights before an inspection has even happened. Pressure before documentation is the pattern worth walking away from. We run our crews out of showrooms in Doral, Kendall, West Palm Beach, and Fort Myers, and every assessment starts on the roof rather than at a contract table. The counties we cover are listed on our service areas page.

What Happens After the Claim Is Approved

After the claim is approved, your contractor pulls the permit, performs the work to the approved scope, passes the municipal final inspection, and submits the final invoice so the carrier releases any withheld depreciation. The permit is not a formality in this state.

Municipal inspection closes the loop. A final inspection on record confirms the repair met code, which protects the property at resale and supports any future claim on the same roof. Local permit requirements vary between Miami-Dade, Broward, Palm Beach, and Lee counties, so the timeline shifts depending on where the home sits.

Finish the paperwork the same week the work finishes. Send the final invoice, the completion certificate, and the inspection record to the carrier together, and keep a copy of everything for the next storm season. A complete closed file becomes the baseline that makes your next claim straightforward.

Storms stress the entire building envelope, not the roof alone. Homeowners upgrading storm-ready roofing frequently address the openings in the same project, because the covering and the openings work together against uplift and water intrusion.

Uplift resistance across the whole envelope is what keeps a single breach from becoming a whole-house loss. A failed window lets pressurized air into the structure, and that pressure pushes the roof deck from below while the storm pulls it from above. Pairing a code-compliant roof with impact windows closes that pressure path.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Not to Say to Home Insurance?

What you should not say to home insurance is any statement admitting fault, guessing at dates or causes, or describing the property as neglected. Stick to verifiable facts: the date of the event, the date of discovery, documented damage, and mitigation steps you took. Carriers record claim communications, and a single casual remark about deferred upkeep can support a wear-and-tear denial later.

Does Hurricane Damage Have a Separate Deductible in Florida?

Yes, hurricane damage carries a separate deductible in Florida, typically calculated as a percentage of the dwelling coverage limit rather than a flat dollar amount. Since the 2022 reforms, policies may also carry a separate roof deductible, which the carrier applies specifically to the roof portion of the loss. Both appear on the declarations page, so read that page before filing.

What Is a Proof of Loss for a Roof Claim?

A proof of loss for a roof claim is a formal signed statement describing the damage and the amount you are claiming, submitted in the format and within the deadline your policy specifies. Proof-of-loss submission starts two statutory clocks: the insurer must begin investigating within 7 days and complete a physical inspection within 30 days. Incomplete or late submissions delay both.

Can You File a Roof Claim for a Tile Roof With Cracked Tiles?

Yes, you can file a roof claim for a tile roof with cracked tiles when the cracks came from a covered event such as wind-driven debris or hail impact. Fresh cracks run through the tile body with clean edges, while age-related crazing stays on the surface. Photograph the cracked tiles alongside any displaced courses, since broken headlap often accompanies impact damage and strengthens the claim.

Does a Roof Inspection Hurt Your Chances With Insurance?

No, a roof inspection does not hurt your chances with insurance, and documented inspections generally strengthen a claim. Inspection records establish the condition of the roof before a storm, which counters the neglect argument carriers use most often. Florida law also makes the inspection your protection, since a report showing 5 or more years of remaining useful life blocks an age-based refusal to renew.

How Often Should You Get a Roof Inspection in Florida?

You should get a roof inspection in Florida once a year and again after any named storm or severe wind event. Annual inspections create the dated baseline that separates new damage from old, and post-storm inspections catch breaches before water reaches the decking. Given that wind and hail accounted for 51 percent of United States property claims in the third quarter of 2025 alone, an annual record is time well spent.

The Bottom Line

A roof insurance claim is decided by evidence and sequence. Document the damage within 48 hours, bring in your own licensed contractor before you call the carrier, file inside Florida's one-year notice window, stand on the roof with the adjuster, and compare the two estimates line by line before anyone signs anything. Each stage produces what the next stage needs, and claims that follow that order recover far more than claims assembled after the fact.

Roof age, code vintage, and permit history round out the picture. Florida law protects a roof under 15 years from age-based non-renewal, gives older roofs the right to prove 5 or more years of remaining useful life, and limits how far current-code requirements extend on a partial repair. Knowing those rules before the adjuster arrives puts you in a far steadier position.

Storms here leave questions that photographs alone cannot settle, and we have spent nearly two decades sorting them out for homeowners across South Florida. If a recent event has left your roof in question, ASP SuperHome is glad to take a look and put the findings in writing in the format adjusters work from.

Reach out whenever you are ready and we will schedule a visit through our contact us page.

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